THE BEST BATHROOM IDEAS
Text and Photos adapted from Taunton's
Home Bathroom Idea Book
by Andrew Wormer
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Taunton
Press New Bathroom
Idea Book
A great design guide
for creating your perfect bathroom
by
Andrew Wormer
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Bathrooms
were once utilitarian rooms not much bigger than closets. Today,
a stroll through a bath showroom or a quick look through a home
design book or magazine will prove those days are long gone. Forget
great rooms and kitchens; bathrooms are the new frontier in home
design.
Working couples, traditional, blended and extended
families, the young and old and physically disadvantaged– we
all have greater expectations for the places in which we live.
We want our bathrooms to be beautiful and functional, easy to
clean and a refuge from busy lives.
As a result, today’s bathrooms are bigger,
offer more features and use a wider variety of better materials – requiring
many more decisions to plan them wisely. To make the process
less daunting, Taunton Press author Andrew Wormer provides background
information on many types of products to consider for your bath.

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Porcelain-enamel surfaces are durable, sanitary,
easy to clean and highly resistant to chemicals and corrosion.
For many, there’s no replacement for the solid quality
of an enameled cast-iron tub, which is why decades-old claw foot
tubs that are in good shape are a valuable salvage item.
Porcelain enamel starts out as a mixture of minerals,
such as silica, feldspar, and borax, which are heated into a molten
state and then drawn out and cooled into a glasslike ribbon. The
ribbon is pulverized to form “frit,” the particulate
sprayed onto the metal surface that is to be enameled. After the
frit is sprayed onto the metal surface, it is fired at a high temperature,
which fuses it to the underlying metal, creating a durable coating
that won’t easily chip or peel.
Different types of metals can be coated with
porcelain enamel, but cast-iron and steel are the two types you’re
most likely to encounter in the bathroom. Enameled-steel sinks
were once popular because they offered a less-expensive and lightweight
alternative to enameled cast-iron sinks. You don’t see them
much anymore except in junk yards because they proved to be prone
to flexing and cracking.
Enameled-steel tubs are still manufactured, but
they’ve been largely replaced in the marketplace by fiberglass
and acrylic tubs. For the most part, vintage cast-iron fixtures,
unlike old steel fixtures, are worth salvaging because they can
be repaired or reglazed.

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Ceramic tile’s variety, versatility, and
durability make it popular bathroom finish material. But how do
you whether to choose a generic 4-in. by 4-in. white
costs $1.00/sq. ft. or an almost identical-looking tile that needs to
be special ordered at ft.? Which tiles are best for floors? Do you need
tile for the shower?
Permeability, or the ability to absorb moisture, is one comparing tile.
Vitreous tile has a dense body and negligible amount of moisture. It’s
better suited
or exterior installations than non-vitreous tile, softer and more porous.
Because non-vitreous tile a shorter period of time at a lower temperature,
expensive to manufacture (and therefore to buy) vitreous tile. In practice,
both vitreous and non-vitreous are used interchangeably in the bathroom,
since glaze protects it against most moisture.
Texture should be another concern when choosing
tile. Although the shiny smooth surface of a polished or glazed
material may look great and be easy to can be slippery when wet.
It’s better to choose a has a textured or matte glaze for
floors and save tiles for the walls and countertops.
The best way to choose tile is to know what the
tile used for, pick out something you like at a tile store, some
samples home, and put them through a few scratching, rubbing, and
scuffing tests.

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When choosing a bathroom sink, consider the type of use it will
receive. For example, powder-room sinks that are used only occasionally
by careful guests don’t need frequent or vigorous cleaning
with harsh or abrasive chemicals. Family-bathroom sinks, on the other
hand, are under almost constant use and abuse: toothpaste, cosmetics,
nail-polish remover, sometimes even the paws and claws of a small dog
or cat receiving an involuntary bath.
Vitreous-china pedestal and wall-mounted sinks have been an
enduring choice for family baths and powder rooms for years.
For one thing, they’re virtually impervious to any kind
of cleanser that you can throw at them.
Enameled cast iron sinks are still a popular choice, but don’t
confuse them with enameled stainless steel sinks. Cast iron is
quieter, tougher, and less apt to chip or crack. Brushed or polished
stainless-steel sinks are not all that common in the bathroom,
but their track record in the kitchen should make them good candidates
if you don’t mind their rather industrial look.
Other metals sometimes used for powder-room sinks include pewter
and even silver, but these metals are softer and require considerable
care to keep them from scratching.
Cultured-stone sinks that mimic the look of marble or granite
have been around for years. Some cultured-stone sinks are gel-coated
to give the sink its color and texture. Inexpensive gel-coated
sinks can crack and blister around the drain hole, while newer
cast-polymer sinks have a higher percentage of harder materials
like quartz and aren’t gel-coated, making them more durable (and
more expensive). And, of course, the stone-like qualities and workability
of solid-surface
materials make products like Corian an excellent and popular choice
for sinks and combination sink/countertops.

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Polished chrome has a long track record as a durable faucet
finish that won’t scratch or corrode. No matter how grimy
chrome bathroom fixtures become, they clean up easily with water,
a sponge, and some abrasive cleanser. In fact, chrome offers
such great protection that most faucets – even those with
a brass finish– have an underlying layer of chrome, which
is electrochemically deposited over a nickel plating.
Many people prefer the look of polished brass to chrome, but
unprotected brass oxidizes when it comes in contact with air.
Clear protective lacquer and epoxy coatings help control tarnishing,
but they don’t stand up well to abrasive cleansers. However,
a new technology called physical vapor deposition (PVD) offers
a shiny brass finish that has virtually the same durability as
chrome. Different manufacturers call their PVD brass finishes
by different names, but most of them offer lifetime warranties
on the finish, which will likely replace other brass finishes
currently available.
Colored-epoxy finishes are also popular, particularly in white.
These finishes are baked on, durable, and easy to clean, though
not as scratch-resistant as either chrome or brass. Abrasive
cleansers should also be avoided with this type of finish.

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Most molded-plastic tubs and showers sold today are referred to
as either fiberglass or acrylic. While acrylic units are manufactured
of essentially the same materials and look identical to fiberglass
units on the showroom floor, the difference is in the surface that
you can see when the tub or shower is installed.
Fiberglass units start out on a mold that is first sprayed with
a thin (1/64-in.) layer of pigmented polyester resin, called a
gel-coat. Layers of fiberglass
– a mixture of resins and chopped or woven glass fibers – are then
added to the initial layer of gel-coat. until it is about 1/8-in. thick. Before
the unit is taken off the mold, various reinforcing “inclusions” – foam,
wood, even corrugated cardboard – are added for structural rigidity.
Acrylic units start out a bit differently. First, a 1/8-in .
thick sheet of acrylic is heated, stretched over a tub or shower
mold, then sucked into shape with vacuum pressure. After the acrylic
shell cools, the fiberglass reinforcing and inclusions are added
to give it strength and rigidity.
Besides cost – acrylic tubs are at least twice as much
as comparable fiberglass models – you can usually distinguish
acrylic units from fiberglass ones by their ceilings. Because they
are vacuum molded, acrylic shells need to be closed on all sides
during the manufacturing process (though some manufacturers later
remove the ceiling on some models). An acrylic tub or shower is
more durable and harder to scratch than a comparable gel-coated
fiberglass tub. Slight scratches in acrylic tubs can be sanded
and buffed out; darker and brighter colors are less likely to fade.

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Let’s face it: The bar has been raised on
our bathroom expectations. Where simple tubs and showers were once
enough, now we need whirlpools, hydro-massage, and steam. So it’s
little wonder that we now expect more from our toilets than a simple
flush.
At the same time that manufacturers are wrestling
with the performance of their low-flush toilets, they’ve
also come up with some interesting innovations. For example, electrically
heated toilet seats are relatively common now, a feature that many
will appreciate on a cold morning. Some specialty toilets have
hydraulically operated seats that lift and lower automatically,
a useful feature for elderly and disabled users who have difficulty
getting up from a seated position. Another new feature is a soft-closing
seat system that
prevents toilet seats from slamming down onto the toilet accidentally.
Now, if they could only come up with a system
that would clean the toilet automatically. Actually, the new personal
hygiene systems are automatic cleaning systems, but they clean
the body instead of the toilet. Basically an alternative to a bidet,
personal hygiene systems come in different configurations ranging
from add-on toilet seats to self-contained toilets with shower/bathing
functions. They work by directing a warm stream of water through
a handheld wand or an automatically retracting nozzle toward the
pelvic region. Some also provide an automatic air-drying function.

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